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Sardinia Beaches and Beyond
Sardinia beaches and beyond is what we are calling this part of our vacation. An island paradise, the beaches and sites of Sardinia are a quick, inexpensive flight or ferry away from Rome. Sardinia’s (or in Italian, Sardegna’s) beaches are world famous for their stunning beauty. And there are lots of beaches on Sardinia to explore, snorkel, dive, kayak…endless possibilities! For more on what to do in Rome see our article on Top 7 Tips Rome and detailed travel info for Italy. Join my husband Joe, our two teenagers and me on this journey!
Starting in Rome
Opening my eyes, I blink slowly. Awakened from my nap by the sounds of street musicians playing outside my window in the piazza down below. This is part of the daily routine here in Rome. As the day winds down, and the sun heads for setting, the Aperitivo begins! This after work cocktail and social time is obligatory throughout Italy. So the sounds of laughter and occasional cheers begins. Summer in Rome is hot. Therefore, afternoon siesta in a cool apartment or lounge chair on the rooftop terrace is mandatory. However, if we are to travel to Sardinia tomorrow, it is time for us to pack up. Our precious time in Rome is coming to end. We decide to stay in and have a delicious dinner on our terrace. Our earlier stop at the Campo dei Fiori market provides us with red, ripe tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella, basil and local homemade pasta. Another bottle of cold Valdo prosecco is opened and we savor our last night in the Eternal City.
Rome to the Island of Sardinia
Morning arrives and we walk to the Ape Bar for our daily cappuccino and cornetti. The owner, Antonio, has been serving us for years. In fact, he greets us with a smile and a cheerful “Buon Giorno” as if we are old friends. Joe and I discuss stopping by later to pick up some of their delicious panini to take with us. Our friend Luca has graciously allowed us a late check out of his apartment rental. Because of his kindness, we are able to stop by St. Peter’s Basilica, do a little shopping and have a delicious lunch at Pasta alla Bolognese. We taxi to Ciampino airport for our Ryanair flight.
Sardinia Beaches and Beyond
Our flight is delayed leaving Rome. Finally, we are off. It is about an hour flight and the sky is a beautiful purple color. Another spectacular sunset in Italy! On arrival at Cagliari, we pick up our rental car. Driving to our apartment, we feel like we have mistakenly arrived in a Star Wars scene! Rising out of the darkness are all kinds of towers, lite up and so otherworldly! Rather than take a video, we just stare out the windows! Actually, they are part of the Industrial Park. Another 20 minutes drive and we arrive at our peaceful apartment. The sweetest woman, Serenella, quickly gives us a tour as well as her recommendations. Our rental: Sea View. This apartment is wonderful with a lovely terrace overlooking the sea, 2 bedrooms and a fantastic kitchen. Finally here and we are hungry! Almost midnight, we rush over to Eleanora for a gigantic takeaway pizza that barely fits in its box or our car! Satisfied, we settle in, letting the ocean lull us to sleep.
Yum – So Delicious Food
Our first day in Sardinia and we take the short drive to the Conad grocery. Picking up food for the next few days is also so much more interesting than at home. The cuisine of a region really does tell you a lot about itself. Joe finds espresso and I see the freshest looking seafood, fruits and vegetables. As well as freshly made pasta, Italian chocolates and cookies. And our favorite Italian Rustica potato chips! Because they go fantastically with bubbly Prosecco! Therefore we pick up several large bags. Trust me, my daughter and I have been known to chase after a San Carlo Rustica truck. Maybe not our finest moment, but true! In fact, I always sneak 2 bags into my backpack for kids Christmas stockings. And they are always very happy to receive! Anyways, we purchase prosciutto, cheeses, olives, rolls, fruit and water for today’s beach picnic.
Chia, Sardinia – Voted #1 Beach
We decide our picnic lunch will be on well-known Chia Beach. Wow! The clear, clean turquoise water is stunning. And the sand is peach colored. Our apartment comes with beach umbrellas and they are perfect to escape some of the bright summer sun. Our picnic is delicious! Wind causes some of our precious potato chips to hit Joe. The kids are laughing, “beware of flying Rusticas!” Silliness and memories, what everyone needs!
Now the ocean beckons us with its cool, refreshment. So, we spend the day splashing in the Mediterranean. The kids take a short walk to the Torre di Chia (Tower) with its spectacular coastal views. No one is ready to leave but it is almost 7 pm already and stomachs are again grumbling in hunger. I see why Chia is awarded the “Most Beautiful Italian Beach” by the Blue Guide of Italy environmental association.
Sardinia Has So Many Beautiful Beaches
The drive back to our apartment is easy on Sardinia’s well-paved roads. We quickly prepare a green salad, pasta with fresh tomatoes and pesto and open a bottle of prosecco. Besides our daughter having life threatening food allergies, we enjoy cooking. Considering we almost always rent a place with a terrace or garden, eating al fresco is delightful! Also, it feels like we are temporary locals as we shop at markets and stores. In fact, many days, the kids will make dinner. Afterwards, we go for a walk along the beach out front, a quick swim and play several games of Uno, a family favorite! We sleep soundly and awaken to another beautiful day. After a healthy breakfast of yoghurt with fruit and Joe’s scrumptious cappuccino, we decide on the not-to-be-missed beach of Spiaggia di Tuerredda. Also, only 5 km from Chia, we know how to get there!
Snorkeling & Kayaking at Spiaggia di Tuerredda
Tuerredda Beach is one of the best beaches we have ever visited with powder white sand and sparkling blue sea water. And parking is available, about 9E/day. We setup our umbrellas and quickly head for the sea. Considering this is only our third day on Sardinia, we have completely mastered “La Dolce Vita”! Today, we decide to eat lunch at the onsite restaurant. Another stellar decision as the food here is delicious! We order a few dishes to share and cold Sardinian Ichnusa beer. Today is the hottest day yet, about 92F/33.3C and the beach is crowded. Because there is a lot to do at Tuerredda Beach, we decide to come back again tomorrow. Namely, the kids would like to kayak to/around the small island of Isola di Tuerredda, about 150 meters offshore. I am happy to swim to the island and meet up as the Mediterranean is spectacular!
Cagliari, Flamingos & Starfish
This morning after a delicious breakfast of French toast stuffed with bananas, we head to the capital, Cagliari. Two cellphones are not working. In search of the TIM store, we are intrigued by this ancient town. Driving, we see the pink flamingos that Sardinia is famous for. Cagliari has a newer part near the marina and an old district with stunning palazzos, churches and Medieval wall. But we are hot and head to Spiaggia (beach) Perda Longa.
En route, we pass several of the Megalithic stone towers called “Nuraghe”. There are over 7,000 on Sardinia. No one really knows their exact use. At Spiaggia Perda Longa it is quiet. Our daughter finds a starfish on the sea floor. Amazingly, it wraps its arms around her fingers. The beautiful nature of Sardinia is unmatched! All too soon, it is time for dinner. Tonight we prepare fresh fish – yum!
Savoring Everyday Moments
Our time in southern Sardinia is ending. Tomorrow we are driving north to Alghero, of Catalan/Spanish heritage. Although our days are passing quickly, Sardinia has a way of slowing you down. Seducing us with this appreciation for truly savoring each moment together.
In fact, Sardinia is a “Blue Zone” – where people routinely live into their 100’s. And you will see many photos on town walls of Sardinians over 100 years old. Almost unheard of in the USA, Sardinian’s attribute this to many things: close family/communities/traditions, eating the fruits/veggies from their own fields, little processed food, eating seasonally, local healthy olive oil, lots of exercise and the local red wine Cannonau, which has the highest concentration of antioxidants of any wine. And they religiously drink a glass or two every day! In all honesty, I could get used to this.
Hiking, Biking, & Sheep
Packed up, we load the car and head north through the center of Sardinia. Specifically, to the Medieval old town of Alghero. Driving, we see many mountain bikers, hikers and a lot of sheep. And with over 4 million sheep to tend to, you may actually see shepherd’s. Their delicious sheep’s milk Pecorino Sardo cheese is fantastic!
About a 3 1/2 hour drive, we see more of the Nuraghe – the mysterious stone towers. Arriving in Alghero and our next apartment is in the Centro Storico – the Old City Center. Another fantastic experience, the apartment is brand new and the owners are so kind. They give us gifts of wine and cookies. We unpack and head out to explore Alghero.
Alghero
Alghero’s nickname is “little Barcelona”. About 400 years of Spanish rule has brought culinary and linguistic fusion. And why you see Paella on menus. Although the typical Spanish rice is replaced with Sardinian Fregula pasta. Because of traveling, we are fascinated by a regions food traditions.
The cobbled alleyways of Alghero are filled with Trattorias, cafes and stores. Here Sardinian red coral is abundant. Because of this, there are many stores selling coral jewelry at a low price. Another good gift idea!
Considering it is afternoon, decide on La Bottega dei Sapori Ristorante Pizzeria. It is a great choice! We ask the owner for recommendations. In fact for us, traveling with a person that has life threatening food allergies, talking to the cook/owner is safest. Joe and the kids order wood-fired pizzas and I, the fresh swordfish with salad. La Bottega has a lovely atmosphere and we enjoy eating outside. Afterwards, we walk around and go to the beach, San Giovanni.
Northern Sardinia
Many Italians and Europeans holiday on Sardinia, usually in Summer. Few Americans venture to this island paradise. So we had very little first-hand info to plan our trip. Because of this, the Chief Vacation Officer/Travel Consultant (me!) read everything I could find. But the best teacher is experience. Although we had a wonderful time, here is my advise: stay longer! Specifically, stay in northern Capo Caccia area for several days as the beaches are spectacular. There are impressive cliffs and caves. The most famous: the Grotto of Neptune. Also, there is a large nature reserve with awesome hiking and biking trails. Snorkeling, diving and enjoying the beautiful sea is so relaxing. It is easy to take daytrips to the picturesque villages in this area.
Trip Plan
Trip plan: fly into Cagliari and stay near Chia area, 7 – 10 days. Then drive north and stay in either Capo Caccia area or if budget is not a factor, on the gorgeous Costa Smeralda. Almost exclusively for the rich and famous, Costa Smeralda (Emerald Coast) is home to mega-yachts and mansions. So much to see and do, plan for 7 -10 days. Besides all the charming towns, archaeology, history, nature, hiking, mountain biking, beaches/sea are the amazing Maddalena Islands to explore. As well as the French island of Corsica only a short ferry ride. See, staying longer is necessary!
Fly out of Olbia or Alghero. For us, we flew easyJet to London Gatwick. Easy, inexpensive flights via London or Rome make Sardinia a very viable vacation destination.
Trip Costs
Total: $4,874 for family of 4 – $1,218.50 per person for a 15 day trip. These are our costs and are dependent on time of travel, advance booking discounts and a desire to travel well at good value. Because costs are variable, you can travel less expensively. Or more extravagantly. These are typical for our families summer Italy/Europe trips.
- Flight from US to Italy, roundtrip per person – $745
- Trip Insurance (you need this, really) from World Nomads – $225
- Rome apartment rental 3 nights – $600
- Ryanair flight from Rome to Cagliari – 33 euro per person
- Ryanair car rental 10 days, $199
- Apartment 1 – $595
- Apartment 2 – $210
- easyJet flight from Sardinia to London 26 euro per person
Because there is so much to see and do on Sardinia, we know we will return…priceless family vacation memories!
#iloveitaly #ilovesardegna
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